Castrojeriz

I have just checked in to the private albergue "Casa Nostra" and the PC is worse than you can possibly imagine. I'll write what I can and will perhaps manage to post a few pictures.

On Wednesday March 11 I left the albergue in Logroño. The place was kind of OK but not to be recommended. It was donations based - but on entry they required a 5 € "donation". Internet access was accordig to similar rules. The door was closed at 9:30 in the night, making it virtually impossible to eat out. There was something not quite right in the atmosphere, but the place was basically OK and gave the chance to wash, eat, and sleep. The dormitory was large and there were severa people snoring. That is something you'll just have to get used to.

I said goodbye to Christine, who answere: "When you are gone, you'll be glad to have known me." This is what the fox said in "The Little Prince" and I think it was well said.

I spend the day walking with the German girl Liz. She turns out to be almost exactly the same age as my eldest son. She turns out to be very good company and the 36 km to Azofra go nicely. Azofra has a new municipal albergue, which turns out to be closed (it opens the next day). We are guided to an old albergue, which is built right to the outer wall of the church. The place is primitive but cozy. After a while, an elderly American gentleman appears. He is Doug from Boston. We end up having a separate room for each to sleep. Liz gets the only radiator. We buy some wine from the local shop. It is bottle on the spot and comes from the vinyard of the family. It is young but very nice Rioja (Crianza) at 2 € per bottle.

Thursday March 19 is a holiday (Fiesta de San José). We walk to Grañon and Liz gets to ride on the way. I too am offered another horse but I cannot ride. Soon after this, I fall down, tearing my trousers and hurting my knee. On a rather gentle slope the round pebbles under me simply start rolling and suddenly I am flat on the ground. I desinfect the knee (with Betadine) and let it dry out in the sun and breeze. Grañon is probably the best albergue on the Camino. It is built within an old church and the entrance is through the bell tower. Pablo (or was it Paco, I am terrible with names) is a wonderful hospitalero, serving us coffee, dinner, and breakfast. Payment is to a box with the text: "Leave what you can or take what you need". What a difference from Logroño! Soon after us appear four German and Swiss you people and a charming French gentleman from Bordeaux - Michel. Michel is doing his 10th (and last) Camino. He knows everything about the road, its history, buildings, saints, etc. I get excellent lectures from him in very articulate French. Pablo has also done 10 Caminos and is now on a two-week holiday from his job in Barcelona, working as a hospitalero, paying forward what he has received from the Camino. I later hear from others that Grañon is legendary - and for a good reason.

On Friday March 20, I continue to Villafranca Montes de Oca. A very primitive but friendly albergue. This is the last resting place before crossing the "Goose Mountains". The beds are very short (maybe 180 to 185 cm, I am 188 standing up) and blocked at both ends with boards. There is no way to be comfortable in it. I finally find a way to get some sleep by setting myself in a diagoal position, with the feet extending outside the bed. In the albergue I meet Jesus. He is an excavator operator from the North of Spain. He is doing his second Camino in segments. The four-day weekend of San Jose gives him an opportunity to do a good part of the way. He is very nice and helpful and we go through my travel plans together. He only speaks Spansh but we get along just fine. He also keeps up a good pace on the road.

On Saturday March 21, I walk to Burgos. The distance is some 36 km. I pass through San Juan de Ortega, named after the saint who lies buried in the church. There are three sarcofags for the body. Michel explains to me that stealing relics was quite common in the middle ages and this was a way to make sure that the body would not be stolenn. On Michel's recommendation I take the bus through the easter industrial area from Villafria de Burgos to the center (about 6 km), and then walk the last 1 km to the albergue by the cathedral. I'll much rather spend the saved 1.5 hours walking around the city and going through a very dull industrial area. The walking distance for the day still becomes 30 km. The center of Burgos is quite lively and beautiful, and the cathedral is quite unique. It is built in the gothic style but rather than being very high it is very spread-out, with various wings and extensions. The albergue is very modern and the Spanish are proud of it. To me it is somewhat too sterile and not thoroughly thought out. However, for 3 € I get one of the best sleeps until now. It is only disturbed by the Spanish youth having there own fiesta in the streets. There is a lot of noise until late at night and in the morning there are countless wine bottles, plastic cups etc. on the streets.

Today, Sunday 22 March, I got up early and left the albergue a 7 a.m., before the sunrise. The weather was very cold. It was blowing hard from the north east and the temperature was only a few degrees above zero. Burgos is said to be the coldest major city in Spain. At 860 m altitude and very close to the northern edge of Spain, this is no wonder. Almost every place is closed and I find the first open bar 20 km away. There I have a large salade with bread. 10 km later, in Hontanas, I eat pilgrim's menu for 6 €. I feel like walking an continue to Castrojeriz - according to the book 41 km from Burgos but in practice a bit further away. The camino has changed close to Burgos and there are probably several extra kilometers now compares with the route in the book. So, I made a good marathon today. My left foot is giving some signs of maybe developing a blister - time will show.

The albergue Casa Nostra is very nice, with just a few pilgrims. The house is not warmed and most people went to the municipal albergue a bit further away. The hospitalero Juan is very nice and the house is a typical old house with a soul. I have a warm sleeping bag and should be OK.

The day has been rather cold despite the brilliant sunshine. The wind is very strong but luckily blowing mainly from behind. I have earlier burnt my legs, lips etc. Now I have good sun screen - both for the skin and for the lips.

The connection is so bad that I'll post the pictures another time - hopefully soon.