It has been a while since I last had a chance to post anything. Here is a short summary and some photos.
On Friday 13 March I walked from Zubiri to Pamplona, which is known for its bull fights and Hemingway. The day was sunny. It started as cool and got rather hot towards the afternoon. Thermometers showed about 23 degrees in the shade and the sun added to the heat. The breeze made the weather much more pleasant. I was suffering from a nasty cold and arrived to Pamplona rather tired. I also lost the trail very close to the end and entered the town from the wrong direction. My back pack was full of wet clothes that I couldn't get dry in the albergues. I wanted to dry my clothes, get a good night's sleep, and not disturb others by coughing. So, I checked in to a hotel in the center. This was the low point of my trip. I had no appetite and was clearly dehydrated and coughing and sneezing constantly.
On Saturday 14 I woke up 3 a.m. and had difficulties getting sleep. I eat some, pack my things, and sleep again from 5 to 7. I set out early for Puente la Reina, where the French pilgrim routes meet. The weather is much like the day before but the wind is higher. There is a row of windmills (I count 60 of them) on the ridge. You can see the windmills from far and the ascent is rather long and steep. On top of the ridge the wind is so strong that I have to hold on to my things while having a lunch. The view back to Pamplona is very nice and a new view towards Puente la Reina opens up on the other side. On the road I meet several other pilgrims from a number of countries. In the picture are Sayo from Japan and Christine from Canada. There are also Britishers, Koreans, many Spanish people, and one American on the road. The private albergue in Puente la Reina (which is said to be really good) is closed and I have to return to the official one, attached to a seminar educating priests. The place is very basic but has hot showers, kitchen, and a common "living room". Here I meet again all the people from the road and some that I met in Zubiri. A nice addition to the group is Estonian Olli, who speaks flawless Finnish.
On Sunday 15 I continue to Estella, where I settle in a free-of-charge albergue, which is very friendly and nice. They even offer morning coffee with biscuits, jams etc. I leave donation to their box when I leave. Here we are hearded to the local church for a mass. The priest is not very convincing but sounds rather like a tape recorder. We have a pilgrim's menu in the local Italian restaurant - the food is inexpensive and quite good. Many of the people I have met before are now staying in another albergue.
On Monday 16 I continue from Estella to Los Arcos. The day trips are rather short (22 - 25 km) because I am still recovering from the cold. Many of the other pilgrims seem to have cought a cold and are coughing loud, while I am already feeling much better. In Los Arcos I stay at a very nice private alberge run by Austrians. Little by little the same old gand is gathering here. We organize a dinner. I take charge of the menu and cooking, Alberto from Barcelona helps with the purchases. Patrick (a retired teacher) and Celine (his wife) from Ireland get the salade ingredients and wine and do a wonderful job at the kitchen (you can see them at the back of the dinner picture). Also others lend a hand. Together we manage to prepare a dinner for 15 people at 5 euros per person, including salade, main course, deser, bread, and a good amount of wine and beer. We have enough food and drink to nourish the three men (English, German, and Spanish) arriving after 9 p.m. Christine takes charge of cleaning up and very competently mobilises the people that were not participating in the preparation. This dinner makes us feel like a family. There is conversation in all languages and people are getting to know each other by now.
On Tuesday 17 I continue to Logroño, la Rioja, leaving behind Navarra. I have really liked the Basque country a lot. The people are a bit rough but warm hearted and the landscape is beautiful. For a wine lover, coming to la Rioja is an experience to look forward to. This land produces some excellent wines. Today I covered some 29 km and could easily have done more. This means that I'll be able to take back the time lost because of the late start on the first day and the cold. I settle down in the official albergue in the center, and soon almost the whole old group is together again. Probably for the last time before some are left behind, some continue at the current pace, and others (like I) make haste to keep the schedule. I will probaly not see these people again and yet we have shared the pain of the road, good meals and meaningful discussions. However, everybody has to make their own trip and their on pace, for such is life on the Camino.
I have no means to edit the photographs and the files are huge. I'll upload some now and more later, when I have more time.
So far everything is fine and the weather could hardly be better.
On Friday 13 March I walked from Zubiri to Pamplona, which is known for its bull fights and Hemingway. The day was sunny. It started as cool and got rather hot towards the afternoon. Thermometers showed about 23 degrees in the shade and the sun added to the heat. The breeze made the weather much more pleasant. I was suffering from a nasty cold and arrived to Pamplona rather tired. I also lost the trail very close to the end and entered the town from the wrong direction. My back pack was full of wet clothes that I couldn't get dry in the albergues. I wanted to dry my clothes, get a good night's sleep, and not disturb others by coughing. So, I checked in to a hotel in the center. This was the low point of my trip. I had no appetite and was clearly dehydrated and coughing and sneezing constantly.
On Saturday 14 I woke up 3 a.m. and had difficulties getting sleep. I eat some, pack my things, and sleep again from 5 to 7. I set out early for Puente la Reina, where the French pilgrim routes meet. The weather is much like the day before but the wind is higher. There is a row of windmills (I count 60 of them) on the ridge. You can see the windmills from far and the ascent is rather long and steep. On top of the ridge the wind is so strong that I have to hold on to my things while having a lunch. The view back to Pamplona is very nice and a new view towards Puente la Reina opens up on the other side. On the road I meet several other pilgrims from a number of countries. In the picture are Sayo from Japan and Christine from Canada. There are also Britishers, Koreans, many Spanish people, and one American on the road. The private albergue in Puente la Reina (which is said to be really good) is closed and I have to return to the official one, attached to a seminar educating priests. The place is very basic but has hot showers, kitchen, and a common "living room". Here I meet again all the people from the road and some that I met in Zubiri. A nice addition to the group is Estonian Olli, who speaks flawless Finnish.
On Sunday 15 I continue to Estella, where I settle in a free-of-charge albergue, which is very friendly and nice. They even offer morning coffee with biscuits, jams etc. I leave donation to their box when I leave. Here we are hearded to the local church for a mass. The priest is not very convincing but sounds rather like a tape recorder. We have a pilgrim's menu in the local Italian restaurant - the food is inexpensive and quite good. Many of the people I have met before are now staying in another albergue.
On Monday 16 I continue from Estella to Los Arcos. The day trips are rather short (22 - 25 km) because I am still recovering from the cold. Many of the other pilgrims seem to have cought a cold and are coughing loud, while I am already feeling much better. In Los Arcos I stay at a very nice private alberge run by Austrians. Little by little the same old gand is gathering here. We organize a dinner. I take charge of the menu and cooking, Alberto from Barcelona helps with the purchases. Patrick (a retired teacher) and Celine (his wife) from Ireland get the salade ingredients and wine and do a wonderful job at the kitchen (you can see them at the back of the dinner picture). Also others lend a hand. Together we manage to prepare a dinner for 15 people at 5 euros per person, including salade, main course, deser, bread, and a good amount of wine and beer. We have enough food and drink to nourish the three men (English, German, and Spanish) arriving after 9 p.m. Christine takes charge of cleaning up and very competently mobilises the people that were not participating in the preparation. This dinner makes us feel like a family. There is conversation in all languages and people are getting to know each other by now.
On Tuesday 17 I continue to Logroño, la Rioja, leaving behind Navarra. I have really liked the Basque country a lot. The people are a bit rough but warm hearted and the landscape is beautiful. For a wine lover, coming to la Rioja is an experience to look forward to. This land produces some excellent wines. Today I covered some 29 km and could easily have done more. This means that I'll be able to take back the time lost because of the late start on the first day and the cold. I settle down in the official albergue in the center, and soon almost the whole old group is together again. Probably for the last time before some are left behind, some continue at the current pace, and others (like I) make haste to keep the schedule. I will probaly not see these people again and yet we have shared the pain of the road, good meals and meaningful discussions. However, everybody has to make their own trip and their on pace, for such is life on the Camino.
I have no means to edit the photographs and the files are huge. I'll upload some now and more later, when I have more time.
So far everything is fine and the weather could hardly be better.
Can you add a map please? The roads you travelled..
ReplyDeleteMay the sun shine!
It looks so nice. I can tell you, everyone here back home is jealous of you and your trip!
ReplyDelete